They do improve brake performance as they improve braking consistency.slotted and drilled discs disperse heat and gas more effientially. They also help brake up water film on the discs under wet conditions giving better brake response. The downside is there is less surface area and increased pad wear and I am aware that gassing is not as common as it used to be due to modern brake materials.I have gone for a 6 slotted disc on my car and noticed improvement.Idont like drilled discs as ive seen them cracked many times and i dont see the point in multi slot discs other than to look pretty.

On another subject i have been thinking about installing brake cooling ducts from my front splitter to the front calipers, I may do this at some point during the rebuild

Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity.
Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to "glazing" and the slots tended to help "scrape or de-glaze" them. Drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood has a large selection of drilled and slotted rotors for a wide range of applications.
http://www.wilwood.com/Centers/Infor..._answer/07.asp

and
DRILLED VS SLOTTED ROTORS
For many years most racing rotors were drilled. There were two reasons - the holes gave the "fireband" boundary layer of gasses and particulate matter someplace to go and the edges of the holes gave the pad a better "bite".

Unfortunately the drilled holes also reduced the thermal capacity of the discs and served as very effective "stress raisers" significantly decreasing disc life. Improvements in friction materials have pretty much made the drilled rotor a thing of the past in racing. Most racing rotors currently feature a series of tangential slots or channels that serve the same purpose without the attendant disadvantages.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...lections.shtml

I've been offered these:

Would they fit?

S14 Front Hubs x2
S14 Front Hub Bearings x2
S14 Front Knuckles x2
S14 Bolts and Nuts (Knuckle ? Shock)
S14 Front Lower Arms x2
S14 Front Ball Joints x2
S14 Rear Hubs x2
S14 Rear Hub Bearings x2


I know the hubs are 5 stud but I've not bought any wheels yet...

I'm pretty sure the rear hubs are useless unless you use the S13/14 subframe (loads of work to fit that!) but the stuff for the front is all usable. Someone will probably correct me but I don't think you need to go down the 5 stud route.

EDIT - Scrap that five stud part, I think i'm being an arse again!

Sorry, ignore the parts for the rear on that list. I just pasted the list I was given.

I'm only interested in the front.

Would it be ok/safe to have 5 stud on the front and 4 stud on the rears? Obviously I can get the same wheels with different stud patterns.

I now have some S14a calipers. Just collected them :D

yeah course it would be rich. When you get your next wheels get the correct offsets and you wont need to use those spacers you bought. And i can then buy them off you :cool: ;)

Use Z31 rear arms for 5 stud all round.

Use S13 stuff, it will make your life easier

Forgot to mention, that if you were to use S14 hubs you'd need to use an S14 ball joint in the S12 arm. Wouldn't have a clue if it fitted.

You could use S13 or even S14 arms but this would involve a lot more work in relation to the tension rods, anti roll bars etc.

So basically, the best option for ease of fitment is stick to S13 parts...

Been offered these for £180:

s13 front hubs,
discs (wont be using those)
wheel bearings
front track rods and ends

seems a bit expensive?

that might have included 4 pot calipers as well tho, so will check that as i already have a nice pair of those.