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Glad to hear that you all approve and like the wheels... I would have liked minilites myself... but it was not easy finding them for sensible money in 16". And as we have 10 years supply of part worn "R" tyres (dot marked race tyres) then we really wanted to run 16" rims.
Had looked into S40 volvo rims, but would ahve needed silly spacers for the ET34 offset... then suddenly remembered that I had 16" compos on my VW bus, and the compomotive importer lives only half an hour away... so a quick call to him and a root though the attic of his stores turned up a set of saab wheel centres... 114,3 - 4 bolt.. perfect for the nissan.. then just pulled some long porsche 924 rear wheel studs off the dead cars round the back and jobs a good un! Mike. |
To a guy from finland who ordered the fenders.
The fenders are bouncing of your dors because there is no one to pick them up. If u are reading this do something or the fenders will be send back if u dont pick them in time. |
Got the paint finished finally... waiting for the ENEM reground camshaft and new oil pump to arrive, should be here today, so the engine will be assembled and fitted by the end of next week, mapping is June 22nd and first drifting event june 29th.
Some new pictures are on my blog, see below.. and a tester here, if it works.. Conk. http://bp0.blogger.com/_rI1PS9fSkZ0/...0/Image028.jpg] |
Looks good. Those wheels need to come out another inch on the rear to make it look hard ;)
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would need to change the 70mm porsche 924 rear studs for 100mm ones! will do it if we get time... we already have spacers for it....!
Mike |
Cant you use bolt on spacers?
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Yepp... we could ahve done that, but we had these studs knocking around and access to waterjet for cutting spacers...
We are running 14mm studs now, so if we go for bolt ons, then we will probably need to make them ourselves.... so 100mm studs would be quicker, easier and probably cheaper. Later, Conk |
Does it require alot of skimming and filling before spraying?
I take it none of the original Front wing is retained? Can you make Fj20 bonnet vents or complete bonnets to match the rest of the kit. Thanks:) Im thinking about going for a set just though i dont have to worry about panels rusting.. So im thinking i will cut my complete rear quarters right off and replace rather than stick over. |
The finish on my kit (one of the first out of the moulds) was excellent, no real filling or skimming, just blended the edges at the rear quarters with mastic and a petrol coated finger... Simply the best quality glassfiber panels I have ever dealt with.... and there were quite a few on the 6R4's.
I had the whole kit fitted and side skirts trimmed in one day on my own in the workshop.... You should get yourself over to sweden (ryan air 50 qu return) July 14-15 for the gatebil event, then you canhave a good look at my car.... and run a few laps too... Go for it... you know you want to. Mike |
What an offer!!!!!, I would love to but il most probably be working elsewhere. the next few months are pretty hectic at the workshop. We have events at Porto,nurburg, silverstone gp support race this wend etc then the only weekend off i have Jae with s12oc.
i will have a double check on the calender anyway.:) Im glad to hear that prep work isnt too much on the panels. I really get stuck for time. what did you do with the original rear arches. Did you cut them right out?. Id rather not have a fibreglass panel over the top of the original. |
I left the original panel under, but cut away around the wheel arch for tyre clearance, I took the easy option, because had I removed the original panel, or sections of it, then I would have still needed something to seal the inside of the car from the dust, dirt and tyre smoke. I might not seem much of an issue when you have panel trims inside the rear of the car and in the boot, but our is gutted and you can see the original panels from inside the car, although I suppose you could remove the panel and then fabricate a new inner arch...
Looks wise it doesnt matter either way.... time wise it is quicker to leave it in place.... weight wise... the back is already too light... Depends how much time you have I suppose... |
I have updated the blog with some final pictures of the car in action...
http://racing-green.blogspot.com/200...and-total.html Thanks to Maciej (Chester) for making this possible.... Conk. |
Not very happy seeing that your selling it lol:trout ;)
It looks more the part with the stickers on it . Nice photos |
Don't want to sell it either, but the original deal was that we would build a cheap race car for my brother to drive as he didn't dare to drive the porsche.
It was supposed to be cheap... but ended up going 3 times over the budget, and now he won't drive this one either! So she is for sale... and the money will go into getting the 6R4 running.... Conk. |
yea but you are asking for 80000 sek thats way over the top i rather buy meself two r32 or four s13 (silly money and it doesnt even have forged internals) :mad:
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Wouldn't like to see the R32's or S13's you can get for 5800 GBP. Although, as far as S12's go that is bit steep fro UK tastes, even though it is a mint example.
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Besides how can you put a price on someone elses hard work :confused:
Unless you`ve actually seen the car and all the work that`s been put into it, there`s no way you can say it`s overpriced. :( Just my twopence worth.:) Regards, Ian. |
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I could always break it up. 20 000 kr for the wheels and tyres. 30 000kr for the engine 10 000kr for the seats and belts 10 000kr for the roll cage (fitted) 10 000kr for the bodykit (fitted and painted) 10 000kr for the dash display The rest of the stuff comes for free! Building the car.... no charge. |
im sorry about that it´s just that i just got me self a s112 recently for 7500 sek with documentet newly renovated engine and the way i see it 30000 for your engine where the hell have you put the money on that maybe youll have a good engine controll system whit sensors for 20.000 sek then i would understand because surely more than 10.000 to renovate a standard internal engine isn´t realistic.
it is a nice car i admit to that don´t sell it keep it and make it into the monster it could be with forged internals or maybe an ca18det vg30 fj 20 or sr20det but for the love of good to put in 30.000 sek in an angine that only produces say 240 ish ??bhp for that kind of money youll get an rb26dett from a engine supplyer complete with mt tranny. as for the wheels if they are magnesium i get it but i must have missed it in the swedish ad. the body kit is fair priced if the paint jobb is alright the roll cage i can´t understand you buildt it your self as i understood it? well fuck it i didn´t mean to be sutch an asshole and i apoligize for this the above is not to argue it is to show you how i thougt while posting the previous post. i appoligize again its just that even 50.000 is in the top range of what it could get sold for and your aiming for 80.000. and by the way i am not some freaking noob teen that think that he nows anything youll try me if you don´t believe me when it comes to nissan motors 88 to 97 thats my speciality altuohg im still learning about the s12 previous knowledgde is s13 and above. i still love my new s12 altuogh it´s a bit slow at 190 bhp but it will do til the new engins in. again i´m sorry for my latest post i appoligize to mister Conkers and to the forum for putting this in this post i am :trout my self |
Are you beating yourself right now?
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Jesus, its his bloody car let him sell it for what he wants. Obviously if it isn't worth it, then it will become apparant when he doesn't sell it. As for now, good luck to him, it cost him a fair old chunk to build.
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I couldn't type all that with one hand and blurred vision ;)
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why whats your plans mate ? rb26 into jons shell !:)
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Just the 8V for now (if I can get jon's shell :o ). Might go against the grain a bit and drop a Rover V8 in there.... have to wait and see where the ol' wallet takes me. I thought it was about time to actually own a S12 myself though! So even if I don't get Jon's I'll be on the hunt for something. I'd ideally want a notch back if I could find one :cool:
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Are you genuinely interested or just trying to have a go at me? If you are genuinely interested how it can cost 30k swedish kronor (2200gbp) then here's a breakdown of the build... Compare it to your engine rebuild documentation for reference. Ported Cylinder head by the guy who tuned the Pikes Peak Saab cylinder heads, gas flowed valves, reground seats and mira 3 angled cutting, skimmed 0,5mm, volumed and equalised new valve guides and match ported to manifolds= 10 000kr (740gbp) ENEM reground camshaft 3000kr (220gbp) Balancing of pistons, rods, crank, flywheel and clutch 2700kr (200gbp) New Piston rings 1000kr (75gbp) New oil Pump 2000kr (148gbp) Ultrasonic cleaning and testing of fuel injectors 800kr (60gbp) Gasket set 1350kr (100gbp) New Bearings 1350kr (100gbp) Rising rate fuel press reg 2000kr (148gbp) S13 Clutch Cover and uprated disc 1500kr (110gbp) T25 Turbo w/modified oil drain and actuator to fit std. manifold 1500kr (110gbp) Braided hose for oil feed 300kr (22gbp) Heat shielding for turbo and oil lines 500kr (37gbp) Flowed and heat wrapped Manifold 1000kr (75gbp) V740 FMIC and hoses 1500kr (110gbp) Porsche 944T Rad and fans (still part of engine assy.) 2500kr (185gbp) I built the engine to be bullet-proof and run it safe. Aspirations of trying drifitng but primarily as an endurance racing car in the scandinavian long distance racing series, 250bhp is plenty for me, 400bhp would make it a class winner in SLC, but also involve more expense with transmission/clutch etc, as well as jeapoardising the longevity of the build. If you want to buy the engine then I can supply and fit CP 8.4:1 forged pistons, DET rods (balanced of course) and girdle for an additional 10 000kr (740gbp). This is a professionally built engine, not some thrown together piece of junk by some spotty faced moped tuning adolescent... The prices above are only the costs involved, no labour is included. (well, ok, I did the head myself, but the price is what anyone else would pay). Wheels are compomotive split rims, check the price yourself... plus a whole truck load of R tyres go with them..... Roll cage kit 4500kr for the kit and about 100 hours to fit it. I think 10 000kr for a fitted cage is cheap at 55kr an hour in labour! (4 gbp an hour!). It is a fully welded SBF approved endurance racing cage, not a wannabee drifter bolt in cage.. I could go through the stack of invoices for the parts involved in the car build but it would scare the crap out of me... These prices are all of the top of my head.... there could be a few quid here and there difference. Conkers |
What was the spec of the cam out of interest?
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He he... you already asked me this one....
http://www.nissansilvia.co.uk/vbb/sh...1&postcount=25 I wrote ENEM a note quoting what you told me to get.... http://www.nissansilvia.co.uk/vbb/sh...0&postcount=13 and he settled on a couple of BMW profiles... Z10 M20 or something... basically, the hottest thing he could get on it without building it up first... ;-) Conk. |
Oh yeh thats right, couldn't remember lol... Old age maybe?
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Sorry for taking up and old topic... But is those fenders / skirts still avaliable?
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not available anymore?
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I do know that this thread is beyond old, but!
There is atleast two sites that "sells/offers" these http://unqshop.com/nissan-silvia-wid...,number,720437 Located in UK http://www.avb-sports.be/bodycomponents/bodykits/22427/ Located in belgium Dont know how fishy these sites are, but both have same pictures And it looks like the kit is produced by "arjo" If this is legit, it will sure be intresting right? Cheers! |
Don't know the first one.
However I know someone that bought a GP set from the Belgium site. So should be good. |
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