Head gasket?
 

Just did a compression test after susspecting the head gasket had blown and got these readings, find cylinder 3 a bit odd:confused:

cylinder 1= 150 psi
cylinder 2= 150 psi
cylinder 3= 175 psi
cylinder 4= 128 psi

She has been losing power for a while now and getting more sluggish by the day which i thought was down to the turbo but maybe this was a gradual blow, maybe got too hot at some point and slightly warped the head maybe.

Too ad insult to injury i woke up this morning with chewing gum all mangled up in my hair and on my forehead lol

check valve clearances then do another pressure check

I think due to the water in the rad and overflow stinking of fuel and it bubbling and hissing soon as i crank it over , its pretty certain its blown.

But your right it is worth checking the clearances as excessive clearances can cause high compression and insufficient clearances can cause low compression.

Yeah clearances is definately a good idea as you did take all that apart when changing to the piper cam etc. You never know you may have a few problems rather than just the one and all the symptoms being related. :)

Good Luck

Ok whatever the reasons where for the head gasket blowing im taking this oppurtunity to start taking it to the next level;)

First port of call is take the engine out and get it on the stand and split it in half, pukka will be getting the head skimmed for me through his work ( top man for this ). Meantime il be ordering a cometic metal head gasket.

My new turbo will be here on tuesday:D
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Garre...spagenameZWD1V

Once the heads back and fresh it will be getting some added goodies thanx to s13 eater for selling me his custom inlet plenum, billet fuel rail and omex engine management:D , the spec list is as follows:

Piper cam
Cone filter
adjustable vernier pulley
custom plenum
custom billet fuel rail
adjustable fuel pressure regulator
custom exhaust manifold
Full 2 3/4 stainless exhaust system
GT28R at 20-22 psi
Front mount intercooler
Turbo xs twin trumpet dump valve
s13 injectors
walbro fuel pump
cometic metal head gasket
omex management (http://www.omextechnology.co.uk/Ecus/600/omem600.htm)

The omex will come with a map for which il get smooted out and fine tuned to see me a lairy and happy right footed 265 bhp:cool:

Ive researched the stock internals to be good for 270 bhp.

As always il keep you all updated and take pics as it progresses it could take a while but i sure cant wait till i get to plant the old right claw and feel the power:1la

Sounds awesome :cool:

265bhp Sounds good. It means you dont need to uprate your clutch to a paddle.

Im aiming for the same level as you by the sounds of it.

Il probably want to get a new exedy or luk in there though seeing as mine started to current one started to missbehave of late.

Will be cool to see how they both perform on the dyno and 1/4 mile strip against each other, cant wait mate:cool:

id say you need a vernia pully :plug

cough cough iv got one for sale

Ive already got an adjustable vernier pulley as stated in the spec list.:)

pmsl :p

cool:cool: whatve you done chassis wise to get all that power down?:)

i might underseal it:D

Decent suspension and some decent size & compound rubber is all thats basically needed

that's pushing the turbo way beyond it's limits, you'll be heating the air up so much you may as well not run an intercooler

why would you need a paddle for over 265? :confused:

Ok then 19 psi will do me

safe limits for long term usage. I base this on past experience with the type of driving we do. ;)

Also my comment is based along with the other componants, it is overall a good stage to get to. Next stage would be complete engine internals,Bigger turbo still, 444 or larger injectors and with all that would have to come a paddle plate.

I'm going to use an organic clutch (RPS Max Street) for over 350bhp, there's no need to use a paddle on a road car really, all you'll do is damage your flywheel and clutch cover, you have to slip a clutch for driving in traffic and slipping a sintered metal puk on a steel flywheel eats at the surface like you wouldn't believe. i got through a clutch plate cover and flywheel in 3k. Yeager killed 2 in 6 weeks

I have to admit - That's why I don't drive mine in traffic if I can help it! - I have the 5 plate Exedy paddle, and it's awful for traffic driving - I can literally feel the abuse to the clutch! :eek: ) :D

Still, they transmit really well, so I'd not go back to normal if I can help it.... ...having said that, I think that a lot of my pulling away problems are from the gearing being very long in conjunction with the Z31 diff's final drive (i.e. 55-60mph in first, 100-ish in second, 135-ish in third), etc... great for top speed, but awful for pull-off!)...

Still, I'll be able to comment on this fully once my car has been "S13Eater'd", as he's kindly sorting me out a reconditioned master clutch cylinder, as mine if leaking (The slave cylinder was originally leaking, so I doubt the clutch has ever been running 100% as of yet (was slipping like an absolute b*stard at JAE, before Pukka and Shaun bled it, which fixed it temporarily)... - Once again, cheers guys! :D

How much do those clutches go for Danny? And where from. I had not heard of them before.

SRB are the distributor, and driftworks sell them too I've fitted loads of them now. I was an RPS dealer when trading full time. The s14 RPS wass one of the most user friendly and high torque handling organic clutches going, until I insisted on an s13 version being made. it took 6 months or persuading, sending bits off, doing trial fits with SRB until we had an oranic clutch capable of handling 475ft/lbs or torque

I've actually been looking at the posibility recently of fitting a KA24 flywheel to an ET. there are loads on american ebay for very small amounts of money, and there are plenty of KA24 clutches going including RPS sport and MAX ranges

Update:

Ok i had 5 thou taken off the head in total today, after the first 2 thou is became visible and confirmed where id suspected the gasket had blown, was around the water jackets between cylinders 3&4. Another 3 thou done the job to leave a nice shiny new surface:)

I removed the valves and seals and bathed the head in a top secret potion ( hot water and washing powder:D) Its come up like new and was rinsed thouroughly after then dried and covered in wd40.

Im awaiting the head gasket set now so will comence putting it back together once this arrives.

Ive got the plenum, fuel rail and omex on the way and shortly to follow will be the intercooler, so i can start taking out the std ecu and loom.

Il post some pics tomorow as i normally like to show my progress:)