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top mount ET manifold progress
i have started my cut n shut DET manifold to ET top mount conversion. Not got that far yet, but pics on s*** thread http://www.s***.co.uk/vbb/showthread...29#post2866429
any advice/tips/thoughts guys? |
gay swear filter kills the link :rolleyes:
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that looks the muts nuts!!!!
Looks like the turbo closely retains its stock position. Any chance of making me one? :) |
naah, don't make gripo one he's a gto deserter:p let him suffer:D , nice work craig it looks :cool: .
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luckily in my car ive enough room to play with as theres no inner wings any more, so doesnt need to be in any exact place. dont think i'll want to do any more mate, but hopefully the pics might help ya:)
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GTO?! jap aircraft carrier:D only kidding. I cant really talk can i, a reliant and a Blackpool kit car....
Shaun, only following your lead on the manifold front mate, albeit bout 3 years later..... |
i'am only joking craig, hope paul gets it back on the road.
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Now I am a poor ole single batchelor I am making it my mission to get her back on the road. Errr 3000gt gentlemen!!! get it right!! It has 13g turbos on it rather than 9bs which the gto has. 320bhp as standard rather than 280 from the import. I am upping the boost and hopefully it will be running 400bhp by February.
Anyway back to the silvia. Needs a steering rack, better manifold, radiator and hopefully I will have everything else. I want an aluminium rad so anyone who can offer advise shout up. Or if you want to see her on the road again come give us a hand as my work is painfully slow due to 2 prolapsed discs. Ah well:D |
gto ,gt, still not a silvia, you would be best selling it and getting something with some power paul, 400bhp from a 3ltr and 1670kg or more, it will be nippy, but not anything to get you exited, put the 16 valve head on yours, a bit of tuning and you could be up to 350bhp in a car thats at least 500kg lighter.;)
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Awesome job mate and great idea:)
So you have cut off the det manifold to head flange, What is the new one made of and did you make it yourself, or you have it machined up? http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1/P1230001.jpg |
yep chopped the flange off, flipped the bottom mount 180degrees and becomes top mount but at the front of the block rather than rear (needs to be front to fit the scimitar chassis).
Crouchie b had them cut by a place in my home town, had three cut, £45 ea. they are stainless steel and were plasma cut, 15mm thick to allow for warping when welding and then skimmed back to 10-12mm or so. a mate of mine Cameron has done better CAD drawings of the flange so they fit in one piece as crouchies need the runners cut in half to fit. If you want to get one done, i can get the CAD drawings off Cam and you can get one cut? |
Or better still if i decide to have a go maybe you could get me one cut:p ;)
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Quote:
I'm already looking at getting a batch made so if you're serious I'll get you one. I need to get 10 done really though or cost might not be nice |
How much are they going to cost each and how many people want them so far?
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as mentioned, they were £45 each before from the place we used (i have the companies details somewhere). I suspect Sideways Danny is using somewhere else if they need them done in 10s. if it doesnt work out, give me a shout :)
be worth having them plasma cut tho, as its really accurate and needs little tidying. Flame cuts not much cheaper but you have to bugger about with the file.:( |
the ones I will get are going to be CNC milled or laser cut (got 2 places I'm going to try I want to get them down to £30. I might do it different and have them as 2 pieces so I can just get 20 of one smaller type rather than a single piece flange. I need some confirmed interest though
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Sounds and looks pretty good to me. You need one adz. lol and an external wastegate:1la :1la
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If i spend anymore right now il be bankrupt:eek: But its definately something il be doing in the future;)
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ok bit more progress......
ive finished the majority of the welding and fabrication now, just needs all internal welds tidying up with die grinder but my compressor is crap so gonna have to borrow another to finish the job. Once thats done, i will set about making a 'cradle' brace from the rocker cover and spare head casting bolt holes to suspend the assembly with a couple of rosejoints. Its essentially to allow movement with the heat expansion, but help to stop it cracking. Google for Bailey cosworth turbo mount and it'll make more sense. Should stop the stainless cracking as easily. I intend to wrap the manifold in exh wrap, from the manifold to the tailpipe pretty well. i know many people arent fans of the stuff, but i like it and it keeps the heat energy in the manifold and outta the engine bay (and cockpit as exhaust runs inside the car with false floor and out the passenger door!) which on a little fibreglass car isnt funny:eek: heres some more pics http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1/P2220001.jpg http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1/P2220007.jpg http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1/P2220005.jpg http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1/P2220010.jpg http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1/P2220008.jpg |
You may get problems in welds cracking if you didnt use stainless steel migwire as the two different materials could expand at different rates when hot. (I speak from experience on mine) I did a rush job welding up a split on my stianless top mount manifold with normal migwire and its split again :ghey . I will be stainless tig welding beofre i fit the t34.
But your welds look pretty heavy duty so fingers crossed. The rose joint idea sounds good, Maybe i will try that myself as we have a lot of them lying around at my work. the fannymolds coming along well, has the external wastegate flange arrived yet? What Turbo are you going to be using? |
it is stainless MIG wire, but to be honest i do expect it to crack eventually, its par for the course as they say. Luckily the car is only used on track so doesnt do high mileage.
Heavy duty welds? more like amatuer LOL. Im not an expert, but hopefully will be ok. Im gonna use my current turbo which is a T28 hybrid (cut back and 360deg etc) that Turbo Technics built for me 2 years ago. Low lag spec and with a T25 exh bolt pattern. running 16psi at 250brake at the mo, itll be intersting to see if the manifold gives any more power or torque (like the CA20 inlet manifold did). Flange hasnt arrived yet, did you send it to my work? if so we arent officially back yet, so postie doesnt deliver. Not sure if im gonna use it yet, may run it with std actuator first, then change to an external wastegate later, so i can actually see what differnce it makes. |
Yes it was the address that was given with paypal, (work addy)
You will be alright then,i couldnt be bothered to change the real in the welder and just wanted to get my car home. :ghey . Also the gauge of the tube on my manifold is really thin and weakened either side of the welds. At least you stand half a chance of yours not cracking, Hopefully i can make mine stronger when i take it off next. Look forward to seeing a few pics of your engine bay:cool: |
heres the 'before' top mount (ie current...)
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1/08250029.jpg http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1/DSCF0756.jpg will have to wait a while for the 'after' i reckon....:) |
Why havnt you put pictures of it up before:cool: , That looks awesome.Looks like it has so much potential.What tyres are they?
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its not exactly a nissan so didnt think it was appropriate:o , although it is a nissan and engine and box.
tyres are Kumho Ecsta V70A in soft compound. They are currently the softest road legal (List 1B) tyres on the market, so make them ideal for the sprints and hillclimb events i use the car for. Ive used Yoko 32Rs and Avon ACB10s but none are as soft and sticky as these, in fact 3 laps of castel combe and they are overheated:eek: . They are actually their Formula 3 'wet' compound rubber but on a (ultra stiff) road carcass. Although i havent used them, the medum compound are supposed to be an awesome trackday/race tyre, in fact they are used as the control tyres in TVR, Porsche 924 and BMW circuit championships too. my car runs 7" fronts with 205/50-15 and 9" rears with 225/50-15. |
looks cool mate.;)
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ok manifold is 90% finished now, have just cleaned up ports with die grinder and tungsten carbide burrs (crap photo:( )
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...1/P3120005.jpg just needs the flanges surface grinding flat as they have warped during welding even though it was bolted to an old head. Was expecting it tho, thats why the flanges were cut 15mm thick to allow for skimming. |
Love the car CNHSS1, did you buy it like that or build it?
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Craig
I'm surprised to see you're still on a volvo intercooler, have you thought about changing it for a better flow jobby? Are you going to run more boost next year? |
JackieFan
i built the first one (normally aspirated), then bought this one, but not in this spec. In fact the only bits that havent been modified or changed since ive owned it, is the diff and chassis, both of which are being rebuilt and modified before the start of the season lol :D Martin yeah, its on the list of jobs to be done. i run 16psi at the mo, but will probably be running 18-20psi when its remapped. I do begrudge paying £400 for a fancy ally I/C that i know i will destroy next time i have an 'off' lol:rolleyes: The only thing between the I/C and the armco is 2.5mm plastic and fibreglass. i do fancy the ally iveco ones, as they look quite nice and should flow pretty well too. Whaddya reckon? any other choices? |
Look at RS500 replacement ones. You could use your original piping then
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there's a guy on ebay called intercoolerking who has all different sizes of IC, mostly under £100
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cheers chaps, will have a search. always worried re cossie stuff due to the word cosworth adding the 'CAT' cosworth added tax!
anyone used the iveco coolers? any thoughts on them? EDIT not worried about using current pipework ass i want to re-do it all anyway. |
are these manis for sale???
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no mate, its just a DET manifold cut and shut as described in this thread.
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4 Attachment(s)
latest pics of top mount test fitted
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Turning the turbo
Hello mate grand job that, when you turn the turbo the only thing in my experience is that on th compressor side some turbos have a paper gasket and some of the older type casting have a mooosive 'O'ring type seal, just be careful when you try to move it. Dont forget you will need to weld a support bracket welding onto the bottom of the manifold, i have mine going down to the engine mounting and have drilled the side of the engine mounting braket, just bolts onto the engine mounting so it does'nt keep pulling the studs from the head and crack where the pipes join the flange going onto the head.( i speak from many hours hellicoiling and cracked front pipe), sorry in advance if you've done this . I also have a stabalizing bracket that fastens the front pipe along side the gearbox so that whole lot moves together. This stopped the frontsection of the exhaust moving on my silvy.
An idea for the down pipe aswell from the guy who made my front pipe was try and get the flange to be further down so can take the system of the car from underneath rather than have to faff on under the bonnet but i suppose you have to worry about a bonnet :D :D , you can just lift the fooking front off ya lucky bugga,lol Damn good job though , looks like it less time than the from start job i did, a lot tidy'er than mine aswell thumbs up from me mate. |
cheers Kenny:) some good advice there.
i intend to mount a gallows style of brace from the rocker cover and head bit like the Bailey cossie ones to suspend and support the whole maifold and turbo on rosejoints. think i may look at some form of spport rrom underneath too from either the engine mount or spare tapped block holes. im gonna have to cut the bulkhead back and then gonn fit a flexi joint about a foot after the elbow and then 90 deg under the car before the first clamped joint. i will probably not use a clamp but springs so that it can move a bit too. whole thing will be exhaust wrapped too. cheers for the advice th:) |
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