Rumbling/Grinding on rear wheels?
 

recently i've started hearing this awful like grinding and rumbling coming from the left rear wheel. It sometimes comes and goes but it tends to pop up specially when I hit a bump, however the moment I use the brakes it stops the noise :confused: I've driven home using the heel toe method just to stop it irritating me.

It then doesn't even happen some days. I'm slightly curious as I got new discs on the back a few months back, alloys which are open to the elements and well I was out on some loose gravel mucking around. Any chance a stone or something has lodged up behind the back of the disc brake. It has the metal shield at the back so that's one guess as to what it is.

Im pulling my hair out, it makes a noise then it doesn't, when it makes a noise I apply the brakes and it stops happening. Diff....brakes. I've ruled out suspension. Not so easy to diagnose a problem using sound on a forum :D

frustrating :furious

i had a stone lodged between the caliper and the metal guard before.

I'll give it a look over 2moro afternoon, bet all my frustration is over a bleed'in stone :trout

Had the same issues with one of mine and it turned out the guard was bent onto the disc.

I had the similar problem but the couse was a loose caliper. The guy in nissan service did not thighet it right and the calper fell of along with this thing that hold the brake pads and broke the e-brake cable. Fortunetly it was in a city so it happend at a very low speed.

wheel bearing?

sounds like what mine does, although hasnt been doing it lately, same as you mine stops when i apply the brakes, but i had a bakes off and checked everything, only thing i know of that needs doing in the rear is the subframe bushes, and if it is them, then the brake will stop it as it puts a constant srain on it enough to stop it rattling.

so have a look at subframe bushes while you are under there.

had the wheel off and a good poke around, then put the wheel back on. Problems still there but it comes and goes.

Specially pops up when I hit a bump!, does that help diagnose the fault abit more?

I'll have to take the caliper off another day and then the disc to check behind it, also replacing the bushes wouldn't cost an arm and a leg by any chance? :D

right i'm skeptical about something ( excuse the rust :D )

http://file043b.bebo.com/9/original/...945714735o.jpg
Old disc

http://file048b.bebo.com/3/original/...863213375o.jpg
New disc

Is the disc supposed to move freely? I.e the wheel holds it on tight, checked today, could wiggle the disc on the left side so it hopped onto the bolts. Made me think is all thats holding it on the caliper and bolts. So if I removed the caliper I could simply pull the disc straight off....is that correct or is there ment to be something holding the disc firmly in place?

Also notice the two hole between the bolts on the old picture, how there bang on in the middle whilst the new disc has them offset, anyone know the reason why? When I was in college the discs I had to remove weren't that wobbly when you removed the caliper, fact you couldn't just pull em off with one hand.

This might shed some light on my problem but if it's ment to be loose i'm stumped. Let me know if you've any thoughts of your own, help is apprieciated. :cool:

might be bits of rust coming off of your disc now and again.

The discs are new despite the surface rust. I assume the garage cleaned behind the disc before putting the new one in place, i'll check non-the less anyway.

your brake sliders appear to be seized,hence the line of rust still on the inside part of the disc.This may be causing uneven braking or the caliper siezing on.Does the noise get louder when you are cornering,if so then you have a knackered wheel bearing.The wheel studs hold the disc in place by the way,it only gets stuck in place by rust.

By the way,the two holes are for removing a siezed on disc by skrewing 2 m8 bolts into them.

when they are put on the discs are loose, they tighten with the wheel nuts, if you look closely you will see the holes are threaded, this is because after years of them being on there and not moving, they rust in the gaps and become really tight, basically they are there for you to screw a bolt into when replacing them, you wind the bolts in evenly to to pust the disc off, the positioning of the holes are just different depending who made them.

so as long as the discs are tight when the wheels are fitted and tight, then all is good.

I see what your pointing at in the picture. Never noticed it before, the noise doesn't come into play when cornering, it always tends to pop in during straights, specially along bumpy roads or hitting a hole in the road ( not all the time. )

Cheers

fair enough, learn new things everyday. I'll see if I can get hold of a proper jack, have a look at the subframe bushes just to be safe, aye I made sure the wheel was firmly on after checking it the day.

hummmm, that'll teach me to not read the second page, both my points had already been answered, lol

ahh well, can never have to much information.