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oil for ca18et
just wondering if this oil would be ok in my s12, cos ive got a few bottles of it lying around? its 5 - 40 fully syn 76 oils??:)
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f8...t/IMG_0968.jpg sorry about the big pic:rolleyes: otherwise i will probably use 10-40 millers hi/fully syn? |
what oils are recomended then.........:)
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Mostly is probably down to what people choose to regulalry use themselves.
I have always used castrol magnetec 10-40:) |
i use mobil 1 15-50:)
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castrol 10/60rs:)
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castrol rs is what i use too:)
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the local chippie usualy gives me their used cooking oil...
works a treat..! :furious |
millers 10 60 on the ca18et or like shaun castrol rs as they both provide high temperature protection with excellent cold start characteristics.
I wouldnt go for a 5-40 personally |
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a 10w60 is proven to be unstable and breaks down to a 10w50 very quickly. with a t2 and only minor mods a 5w40 or 10w40 would be ideal, using too thick an oil and not getting into it's ideal temperature range is a good way to make your engine struggle and lose power |
I dont agree :rolleyes: But yes a 10-40 would be suitable
But as Adz said personal preference ;) |
which bit don't you agree with?
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ok, 5 - 40w 76 oils it is;)
i just hope my mate doesent come round asking for the oil back, to find only half a case left....... |
i don't agree with the bit about the oil breaking down either, if it does break down like you say , what is the point in using thinner oil, surely that would break down even further:confused:
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it's a proven fact, the larger the gap between the numbers the more unstable the oil is, castrol RS loses it's viscosity after about 2k, there's been a massive oil analysis thread about it on SXOC thinner oil will give better protection at startup, if you understand correctly what the viscosity ratings mean |
yeah i do understand, is it just that oil that does it or is it all of them
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only seen results for castrol RS but the theory is the same because oils are made in the same or similar ways. to be honest a 60 weight oil is way too thick for our climate, a 50 would be as thick as i'd go on a highly tuned car, and it will be more consistent in protection because it's more stable
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changed the oil, fixed the blowing downpipe and fitted a cone filter, took her for a blat down my road and shes pulling loads better, just a few more bits and bobs and it will be ready for MOT next week:)
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ive been using the same oil as adz but i must say one thing the thinner the oil the better it is for heavy use as you will need to change the oil say after every track use as the the high temp you will be running for everyday use you are better using 10-40 or so just my opinion
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i change mine every 6 months regardless of mileage anyway:)
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does anyone do a decent oil in 5ltr anymore, i'am fucked off with having to buy 4ltrs, then another 4ltrs for top up:mad: , my local don't do the top up 1ltr can, thats about 11 quid as well:( whats the sxoc recomend then danny, i ready to have a change.
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i don't think they do, all i've seen is 4 ltr packs of it , for the last 3-4 years or so
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Silkolene, Valvoline, Millers and motul all come in 5 liter cans, I'd be happy to use any of those, Valvoline is the most friendly price though
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is the silkolene pro any good as thats 10/50.
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After further thought though 10-50 is probably the best choice for the ca engines but i dont think Castrol RS is going to do any harm at all and is still a top choice of oil |
i think every 2 kilometers is a bit extreme jon:trout :D i at least do 3k before a change.can engine flush fuck the turbo up:confused:
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pmsl no every 2 miles shaun as it pisses all over the road.:rolleyes:
2000 miles a change so far, I get discount oil through work and a nice warm workshop. Quote:
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my oil seems to get a bit dirty quicker these days, maybe the bigger injectors and more fuel:confused: mine used to be golden all of the time, i must do more oil changes:)
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Fao shaun. At a guess with the engine flush i cant see it doing any damage at all if as a pre-causion the same process is taken as when you fit a new turbo. Ie crank over the engine by hand with the drain line in a pot until a half pint has flowed through the turbo.Out of interest What does it say on the tin?
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engine flush is bad, it disturbs carbon that would normally just stay put and gets it moving round your engine
Silkolene 10w50 has been proved not to have degraded at all after 7k on an s14a, and that's after 2 track days. Castrol is designed for VERY high temperature applications but as such is a compromised formulation and doesn't hold it's viscosity. for the road you want a stable oil. castrol RS also has a very high sulphur content which some engines don't like |
forget the engine flush bas i have heard that it can damage the turbo blades too i have used stp wymns slick50 and no probs as these are reptuble brands of engine treatments and fuel treatments but some of the cheaper brands can do more damage than any good
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additives can actually cause the oil to degrade faster, slick 50 is teflon based, BAD!!!!!
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I've used Silkolene and have found it the most stable at giving consistent oil pressures between normal and really high oil temps
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S.E. used to recomend castrol RS 10w60 or castrol GTX magnatec 10w40 as a cheaper alternative.
I use castrol GTX magnatec 10w40 as my car has over 100,000miles. If it was lower mileage or modified i would use millers CFS 10w60 its afew £ cheaper than castrol RS + you get 5ltr's instead of 4. And also you should use genuine Nissan oil filter's they are only £7.49 and that includes the sump plug washer that is only ment to be used once. |
Norris designs recommended me mobile 1 15-50. Any thoughts on this as this is what i use. (when the car is on the road which these days is rare).
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In the half of a race track, the lifters made some noise, my oil was 10w40 semi synthetic, temp raise to 110°C. Do the 15w50 better? Must i go for a oil cooler?
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to the circuit, you can save for the 10W50 or 10W60 extreme, but 15W50 be much cheaper and also good;) |
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