New problem, head crack?
 

Here is the problem:

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/3374/crack4ud.th.jpg

Some water exit from it. This crack is located upper the middle between the 3rd and 4th stud motor/exhaust manifoild. A crack is also appeared between the 1st and the 2nd.

Can I weld it? Is it aluminium, right? Solutions? Any experience on it?

Thanks guys, save my s12.;)

P.S: my mods stock T2, stock boost, I/C setup, cold sparks, 2 1/2 exhaust and K&N sport filter in box.

personally, i wouldnt bother welding it, yes its ally, i would source a replacment head in that case.

there are a few peeps on here that have spares, im sure one of them will answer soon :D

I hope that our head can resist more because when i saw threads with T2, T25, T3... my boost is still stock. :(

Where is the weakness come from?
How to solve it?
When i search why it's cracked, it seems water pressure but my thermostat was new for one year now, before it no crack from here.
I don't know how to remove the head, my level in mechanic is just to change brake disc and brake pads:o

Tomorrow I will a company specialised in aluminium welding, perhaps they cn help me.

Cheers.

Have you had problems with the car prior to noticing the crack? overheating or anything?

it's really a very very simple engine to work on, 2 of us had a head off in under 20 minutes (had been off before so nothing rusted or seized)

Nothing.


Here a scan of my mk1 FSM, my car is an mk 1,5:


http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/1...ad004dz.th.jpg

To remove the head, I must remove the crank pulley (but where can I found such a tool to block the pulley? anything else?) and remove the 10 bolts right?

But before I must remove the intake manifoild, advices?

P.S: Must I only do the "removal" part or must i add the "disassembly" part?
P.S.2: I add a WTB thread for a complete head.

have you got enug anti freeze in your car, could have frozen over the cold months????

as for removal, its not really something you can be told how to do on a forum. you dont need to take off the inlet before removal, just go round the engine and unbolt things that hold it together, just remember, coz you need to put it back together.

Never put water in my cars only coolant fluid for car.

So i don't need to remove the rocker arms and valve components parts?

not to remove the head.

Where can I buy i new one with 8 plugs?

Perhaps a solution here:

http://www.club-s12.org/forum/showth...3652#post73652

:D

What about the cylinder head between the ca20e and the ca18et? Are there the same?

I think there are differenced in the FWD and RWD CA20 heads, and I don't think a CA20 runs a distributor. the CA20 inlet manifold gasket I have has square ports too, but the BGA book lists the s12 CA20 as having the same inlet gasket

have you had any look yet, i think i have a spare one.i also have a mildly ported one that could do with a skim and use an s13 1.6mm steel head gasket.in fact i have a complete engine on my yard that came out today, if the price was right he would take the head off.:)

its a pity your head did not go till later in the year as i'am driving to see my mother who lives in corbiers in france.

Some news.

Big thanks to Hasan ;)

Some pics of what i sent to me (Canada to France):

http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/1...35854wv.th.jpg

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/8...35860dp.th.jpg

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/1...35871gg.th.jpg

http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/880...35885cg.th.jpg

I need some info too.

My car is a ca18et mk1.5:

-ECU of mk1-i don't have a rev limiter
-look of an mk2,
-multi rib belts not ones with "tooth" or "V", so a mk2 motor, right?

According to my reads, mk1 and mk2 head are different, oil line difference but if I found a issue, how resolve it? With Stainless Braided Hose?

Can U have some pics to "see" the difference of such lines?

Cheers.

You wont have any problems.Its a straight fit. :). The oil feed line you are talking about is the turbo input oil line and that is part of the bottom end not the head

Sounds good thanks ;)