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Heeeelp! - Electrical Issues...
Arrgh! - don'cha just hate electrics?... :mad:
Car was running great until a couple of days back - then suddenly starting idling wildly between 800 and 1500rpm and was really unresponsive/hesitant to drive... By the time I got home and parked up a mile or so later, it was missing and all over the place, and when I went to put the electric windows up it stalled! :eek: So, I checked the battery - 9.5volts!?!?! - Checked the earth to the alternator, and was a solid signal. I've taken the battery off, but will also check the live from the alternator to the battery... Before I took the battery off, I boost-started the car with a battery booster, left it on, and still only measured 9.5volts across the battery (it used to be 13.x volts)... I'm going to charge the battery up, and see if it shows full voltage, but even then - It may be something else, and the juice is not getting back into it? So, my question is - what are the likely causes for this problem? (I've checked on Silviagod's site, and he's mentioned about corrosion (I have no plastic arch guards, so is worth checking into)), and I was wondering how (before buying another!) I could check the allternator's working fine? I'm a bit of a newcomer when it comes to getting down and dirty under the bonnet, so all helps/suggestions are appreciated... :D I'm also tempted to re-wire the (possibly) corroded wires if need be, and replace any relays, fuses, etc. that may not be working, so envisaging a lot of pinning out/tracing/testing... :( Basically, I'm sick and tired of electrical problems with the car, and from being ripped off by so-called "specialist" vehicle electrics garages who have between them managed to perform umpteen bodges to fix the car (to be honest, I don't even trust the average Nissan spanner monkey to do it right :( , even though they should have the information to hand), and at present my lights don't work on full beam, stay up when raised, my stereo cuts out whenever it feels like it (and comes back on - strange - could be a short, but it should fuse if this is the case? :confused: - Checked the wiring at the back of the stereo, and seems fine?), and my clock and lights flicker like mad whenever this happens... Aaaaaarrgh!!!... Alternatively, if anyone knows (personally) of a GREAT vehicle electrics specialist in the West Midlands, I'd really appreciate getting this lot sorted once and for all! :( Cheers all... Den. |
it sounds a if the battery is dead, if you drove the car for a while with the battery dead it might have took the alternator with it
the batt should put out 12v the alternator should charge at 14v the head light problem will be caused by the stalk switch. the contacts inside get worn out. mine has done it I only get 1 head light coming on. you can take stalk apart and clean the contacts but its easier to get another complete working stalk from anther Silvia |
best way to check the alternator is working is, start the car, and disconnect the battery, if the alterantor is working it will continue running, if not it will stall dead.
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Battery's charged and on - Engine's still revving up and down, but amongst other things one of my pipes have bust - P*ssing water all over my drive!!! :eek: Was too hot to check where from yesterday (still have to disconnect the battery while the engine is running to check the charge), but I'd have thought that with a juiced-up battery (I checked - It's 12.5 volts now), I'd have thought that at least the un-even revving should have gone away??... Getting pretty p*ssed off now! - Will crawl under the car tonight and try to have a feel where that hose is bust (hopefully it IS just a hose!!)... Dammit - Can't even drive it anywhere to get it sorted now!... :furious |
get a 3000gt Den!!! haha!! by the way i have split with the missus. My silvia is up for sale!!!!
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Maybe your water leak is leaking on your alternator/electrics or engine management sensors.
Clean all the sencors up and check them. Another idea is when its idling push and pull slightly on the inlet manifold and see if that effects the idle as a buggered inlet manifold gasket can cause those rpm symptoms. Also Connect your s12 to another car with jump leads with the other car running and see if that helps as 12.5v is not enough output at the battery with the engine running.As you say it should be ok but i dont know how fussy your management is oh..and.........3000gt are big and heavy lol :p ;) |
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I think you're right about the power - 12.5 volts when running's not enough is it? - I'll hook up the fiesta (or Tom's Range Rover if he nips up!) - Either way, it'll be nice it it idles smoothly (I think it's just that with the electrics, water leak AND erratic running problem all happening at once, I'm WELL p*ssed off! - If they'd happened separately, I'd have only had to take 'em one at a time :rolleyes: ) Will also check the inlet mani as suggested, but seriously mate - Cheers for the info! :) PS - Paul? - 3000GT's are BIG man - Lotta weight to pull, and they pretty much drive themselves! (Where's the fun in that eh? :p ) PPS - yer sound too happy about both the missus AND the car going?!?! - ...have you had a bump on the head?! :eek: Ironic! - I was going to nip up and show you the beastie during the five minutes or so it was actually running well, but then she got poorly again... :rolleyes: |
funnily enough the doc has diagnosed me with acute depression!!! it affects me very strangely. All went wrong when i bought a replacement T3 and it was noo good. I started then. Anyway, Im pleased with the 3000gt. Reliable fairly fast (320bhp uk spec) and ok to drive. I will fix silvia fully before she goes to a new home i think.
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if you fully fix your silvia you may even wanna sell the mitsi :p
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Den, I thought you were bringing the car up to me to have the wiring sorted? |
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Yep - I'm dying to bring her up mate - Unfortunately a bloody hose split/leaks (and it's near the tubby! :eek: ), and in addition to that, I don't think she'll make it to yours! - I got home (Just!) when I noticed the erratic idling problem - I've charged the battery up now, but it's still erratic mate?!?! - Also missing a bit, and can't risk driving it as a result... :eek: Might see if I can borrow a trailer.... :) Will DEF. be up though mate - it'll be reallly good catching up and sorting my electrics out once and for all! :D (Just have to sort out these other bloody problems first if I can't find a trailer... :( Cheers again, Den. |
how is the dump valve condition, when my valve went tits up, that gave erratic idle and missfire.
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PS - Got under the car last night - The water feed hose from the turbo had been melted through - Just caught it in time, as the coating on the protective heat blanket had worn through, and contact with the turbo had scorched through to the inside of the hose in one tiny point... Have replaced it with some more hose, and now looking for some more (better!) heat wrap... (was a real bitch to get to though!) - Will fix this, and then try to sort out another alternator... Hopefully I'll be nipping up to God's either next weekend or the weekend after if all's well! (Must check with God first though... :p ) Fingers crossed I guess, but the battery that I put in last week's already lost all of it's charge, so that's ominous too - Probably got a short or something somewhere, but hopefully SG will sort it out along with the other problems! :D (Will try another battery of course first....) Thanks to all of you for the advice and sugeestions - It's well appreciated! :) |
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BITCH to get the alternator out, but nearly there - It's a bit tight in the ol' engine bay - lol!... Found a place near me with one on the shelf - Re-con for £88... - Sound reasonable?... (Wanted £40 for fitting though, so f*ck that!)... Should be winging my way up to Silviagod's for a cuppa in no time at this rate! - lol! oh... erm... as soon as I get my clutch sorted that is! - The pedal was on the floor again after a week sat around, and the fluid was empty - Will grab a slave cylinder pronto methinks, and get under there again.... :rolleyes: It's all good stuff though - I've become a bit braver and better off as a result of the advice and help from you guys, so I'll be buying some helpful people pints at the next event methinks! :D Cheers, Den. PS - Car ran smooth while I had it hooked up to the booster/starter, and died the moment I cut the booster off, so pretty much shows that it'll be okay once the alternator's in and the battery's either replaced or charged up again.... I'm a happier chappy than last week... :) |
excellent....... If you have an old s12 mk2 alternator lying around you could fit that.....
I found i had a broken wire from the alternator to the battery so i ran a new wire straight from the alternator-----(the nut terminal)(as theres too fittings on it)--- to the battery positive. It sorted mine out. Yep the det alternator is a bit of a pain with the bigger inlet manifold above it and all the pipes.I had to change mine at the roadside in the pitch black with my cigerette lighter once and the rest by feel.it was in december and i couldnt even do it by feel by the end of it as i was numb. Really wasnt pleasent.I have a hate for changing s12 alternators for life now Roscoe is pretty good with electrics etc. A trip to his would be better than going to norris in my opinion. You'd have your clutch and all sorts fixed in no time and be fed cups of tea aswell :1la Id be interested to know what clutch hydraulic piston Norris have put on your belhousing Maybe Paul can have a closer look.It may be a s13 or s14 one. My cylinder still needs bleading and i need to do my gearbox oil too.Its on my to do list along with everything else lol |
12.5 is definatley to low a voltage. It should be ~13.5v. Do you have a multimeter? If so, leave the car off and disconnect the battery, switch the multimeter to the continuity tester (the one that beeps) and check the line between the alternator and the posotive clip for the battery. It should beep, or give a really low reading as its as close to a short circuit as your likley to get.
Failing that, measure the potential difference between the cars body and the output of the alternator. Also, not sure on a DET engine, but I would imagine it will have a second smaller wire which controlls the regulator, check that is firmly connected, or else it wont charge the battery. Sounds to me like your alternator is dead to be honest. Edit- Apparantly I should read the whole post before replying, sounds like youve got it all in hand. |
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The tip about the wire to the regulator sounds promising - I 'll check if I have one, and if so, if it's connected! Cheers guys, Den. |
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Cheers guys, I'm a lot happier now (and I didn't waste another £88 of my hard-earned on another needless alternator!)... :D Now all I have to do before I can proceed with my mission to SG's is to bleed the clutch again ... :rolleyes: (Pedal's on the floor, and can t even pump it back to life, so it's gonna be another bleed job I guess - Will grab a new slave cylinder from Nissan if they're def. only £21!... :) Nice one all who helped me!... :D Den. |
great you got it sorted m8
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