The fronts are a direct replacement, the rear apparently fit over the existing rear quarters, but you might want to modify the inner wheel arch(lip) for tyre clearance if you are lowering and widening the car, but theoretically if you dont lower it so the wheels go up inside the standard body, then you shouldn't need to modify the original body.
I'll get a ton of how-to pictures when I fit mine and put them here or on my blog...
Its a bit of a pain that we can't upload images here directly, so I'll have to upload to my blog first and then put them here..
Here's the ack image of the fuel door with 90 degree add ons, either the glasfibre guy will have to do it, or I will have to find someone to do it.
These "tabs" could be in glas fibre or in alluminium, and simply bonded into place with some epoxy glue I quess. Then fit a bit of industrial strength velcro on the tab and on the corresponding part of the fuel filler recess in the widebody kit.
To open the fuel door just remove the thing completely, not sure how long the velcro will hold up like this, but old style wrc roof vents were held open and closed in a similar manner.
That said (quick fix) I'll fit hinges to the forward tab, and then use velcro or use the flexible nature of the thin glass fibre "90" on the trailing edge to make a simple friction or snap lock feature to hold the door closed. As I am sure that in time spilt petrol will make the velcro go mushy.
The important thing is that chester gets the glass fibre guy to bond the tabs on, so that we have some options when it comes to fitting the fuel door.
Excuse the hack image, only have autocad at home and it sucks....
If you want a larger image, go to my blog and click directly on the image, for some reason the direct link to the fullsize image will not work on this BB.
Or click on this link for fullsize image
http://bp3.blogger.com/_rI1PS9fSkZ0/...fuel+cover.JPG
Mike
