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  #1  
Old 02-08-2009, 17:50
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Default Anyone fitted an sr20 box

Has anyone tried an sr20 gearbox on an s12?
Can you just swap the bellhousings and use the sr prop,and does the prop have to come off an s13 or will 1 off an s14 work?
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Old 02-08-2009, 19:05
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This may help
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Old 02-08-2009, 22:23
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Thanks man,clears up the bellhousing issue.
Anyone know whether an s14 prop will fit with an s13/14 box or do I have to get an s13 one
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Old 02-08-2009, 23:38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irish s12 View Post
Thanks man,clears up the bellhousing issue.
Anyone know whether an s14 prop will fit with an s13/14 box or do I have to get an s13 one
japster has an s14 box and prop miss match set up, norris designs sorted it hm, so den (japster) will know, or talk to ND's.
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Old 03-08-2009, 11:01
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s13 and s14 boxes (s14 qith s13 bellhousing) are 50mm longer than the mk2 S12 style box, with the shifter position 65mm further back.
Mk1 s12 gearbox is hsorter still though.



shows mk1 s12 silvia (rear), mk2 s12 middle, s13 (or s14 with s13 bellhousing) front
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Old 03-08-2009, 12:23
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Originally Posted by s13eater View Post
japster has an s14 box and prop miss match set up, norris designs sorted it hm, so den (japster) will know, or talk to ND's.
I read somewhere that you can use a part of the s13 prop with the s13 box and it will fit,if you cut the transmission tunnel for the gear leaver.
I've had both s12 and s13 boxes apart,and the s13 one is much stronger and has much better baffling for the oil.
I reckon an sr box with the right prop will be a much stronger option,and more readily available.
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Old 03-08-2009, 13:21
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to be fair, in terms of what power they will take, i dont think theres a great deal in it. Most seem to think they are made of cheese, but id disagree. Shaun ran 300+on a mk1 box which arent supposed to be very strong and yet the sxoc boys seem to lunch s13 and s14 boxes at less than 300-350 all day long.

the later the box, the better the bearings and oil manangement imho. the last s14 boxes have a sprung loaded baffle on the centre steel plate to stop the oil all ending up in the tailshaft area under herad acceleration and starving the bearings and gears of oil.
the earliest boxes (mk2 s12 and s13) have lots of large holes on the centre steel plate, and the later boxes have poregressively smaller or fewer holes until you get to the s14 boxes.

My breakages have been shifter related, the 5th/reverse selector fork is a cast ally item and wont take abuse! the other two selectors are huge chunky steel jobbies! since changing to a B&M shifter (genuine one) i havent even broken a selector. The B&M has its own detent springs in the shifter so stops the gearlever slopping all over the gate and putting side loads on the selector rods. Ive beefed up a spare selecore with JB weld to try and make it stroger but its in a box i havent fitted yet.

i clutch kick and give it the 'big 'un' on a launch in the hillclimbs and thats with 280hp, 10.5" wide slicks and a paddle clutch, so they arent as bad as soem make out.
I use cheap gearbox oil and replace it very regularly in an effort to help.
for lots of miles use ie road, ide use Redline Shockproof heavy duty oil as a great way of protecting the box further.
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Last edited by CNHSS1; 03-08-2009 at 13:37.
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