Rear Subframe Slotting, how to fix camber

[PukkaSilvia]

I requested a how to for our section from nismo200sx16 and he has done the following and given permission to post it up here. Here is his guide.Its worth a read, even if you decide to do it a different way

some people on here were wanting a how to on the rear camber fix. this is how I did it and it works well for me and I have had no problems with it at all. their may be other ways to do it but cam bolts and modded sub frame bushings will not fix extreme camber.
what I did was remove the rear sub frame and slot the outer control arm mounts completely out. I used the sub frame bushing mount as a reference point to get nice straight lines so that the control arm would stay in line when re assembled. I have seen others just slot the hole out and not cut the entire way through but since I was going to have to slot out so much I figure it is faster and easier to cut every thing out with a cutoff wheel than try to grind it all away with a carbide cutter. after you have it cut out it should look like this. slots should face the ground. do this to both of the outer side controle arm mounts.

after its all cut out put it back on the car and bolt every thing back up. you don't have to tighten every thing up yet just a test fit. you can probably do all this with out removing the sub frame but I was making solid sub frame mounts also and found it way easier to fix the camber at that point.now this is the step that makes my method different than others. next take some plate steel and cut out small tabs that fit on the original control arm mount. you can see them welded on in the pic below. you will have to drill a hole in each one. notice that one side will have a bigger hole than the other. so you will have 2 plates with small holes and 2 with larger holes.now bolt on the control arms on both sides have the plates on the out side of your slots. so now you should have every thing back together but let the outer sides where your slots are lose so they can slide. now put the wheels back on and sit the car on the ground again.now you can use a pry bar between the sub frame and the control arm to set the camber. I just used a large square next to the wheel so I could see what the camber looked like. when you have one side how you want it tighten the bolt down so it wont move. and make the other side match. now you can jack the car back up and remove the wheels. now tack the plates in place an remove the sub frame again to weld it all up. it should look like this when your all done.

you will notice that your outer tab will be lower than your inner because of the angle of the control arm. that's another reason for welding on the tabs because I wouldn't have had any metal their if I just slotted it out. also I have herd that if you just slot and tighten down the bolt it can slip and your camber will be off again. so this is a permanent fix but you will not be able to adjust it later. I just set mine at 2 deg and let it their. hope this can help some people with their camber issues. any questions just pm me or email me at [email protected]

[datdrift]

theres another guide here, done on a z31, i think this one it slightly adjustable tho

http://www.az-zbum.com/modification....e.camber.shtml

[30psi]

There's a kit available for the 510, might work on the S12 as well

[s13eater]

the SE conversion, gbh conversion and the conversion the silviagod got from the states, slotted 17mm diagonally down and backwards, i've seen that conversion on the s12org.