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  #1  
Old 20-03-2006, 18:43
alundra alundra is offline
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Default New problem, head crack?

Here is the problem:



Some water exit from it. This crack is located upper the middle between the 3rd and 4th stud motor/exhaust manifoild. A crack is also appeared between the 1st and the 2nd.

Can I weld it? Is it aluminium, right? Solutions? Any experience on it?

Thanks guys, save my s12.

P.S: my mods stock T2, stock boost, I/C setup, cold sparks, 2 1/2 exhaust and K&N sport filter in box.

Last edited by alundra; 20-03-2006 at 18:47.
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  #2  
Old 20-03-2006, 18:55
umpkin umpkin is offline
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personally, i wouldnt bother welding it, yes its ally, i would source a replacment head in that case.

there are a few peeps on here that have spares, im sure one of them will answer soon
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  #3  
Old 22-03-2006, 03:33
alundra alundra is offline
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I hope that our head can resist more because when i saw threads with T2, T25, T3... my boost is still stock.

Where is the weakness come from?
How to solve it?
When i search why it's cracked, it seems water pressure but my thermostat was new for one year now, before it no crack from here.
I don't know how to remove the head, my level in mechanic is just to change brake disc and brake pads

Tomorrow I will a company specialised in aluminium welding, perhaps they cn help me.

Cheers.
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  #4  
Old 22-03-2006, 12:04
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adzs12 adzs12 is offline
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Have you had problems with the car prior to noticing the crack? overheating or anything?
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  #5  
Old 22-03-2006, 12:59
sideways danny sideways danny is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alundra
I hope that our head can resist more because when i saw threads with T2, T25, T3... my boost is still stock.

Where is the weakness come from?
How to solve it?
When i search why it's cracked, it seems water pressure but my thermostat was new for one year now, before it no crack from here.
I don't know how to remove the head, my level in mechanic is just to change brake disc and brake pads

Tomorrow I will a company specialised in aluminium welding, perhaps they cn help me.

Cheers.
it's really a very very simple engine to work on, 2 of us had a head off in under 20 minutes (had been off before so nothing rusted or seized)
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  #6  
Old 22-03-2006, 14:44
alundra alundra is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adzs12
Have you had problems with the car prior to noticing the crack? overheating or anything?
Nothing.


Here a scan of my mk1 FSM, my car is an mk 1,5:




To remove the head, I must remove the crank pulley (but where can I found such a tool to block the pulley? anything else?) and remove the 10 bolts right?

But before I must remove the intake manifoild, advices?

P.S: Must I only do the "removal" part or must i add the "disassembly" part?
P.S.2: I add a WTB thread for a complete head.
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  #7  
Old 22-03-2006, 17:30
umpkin umpkin is offline
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have you got enug anti freeze in your car, could have frozen over the cold months????

as for removal, its not really something you can be told how to do on a forum. you dont need to take off the inlet before removal, just go round the engine and unbolt things that hold it together, just remember, coz you need to put it back together.
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  #8  
Old 22-03-2006, 17:49
alundra alundra is offline
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Never put water in my cars only coolant fluid for car.

So i don't need to remove the rocker arms and valve components parts?
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  #9  
Old 22-03-2006, 19:40
umpkin umpkin is offline
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not to remove the head.
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  #10  
Old 23-03-2006, 22:52
alundra alundra is offline
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Where can I buy i new one with 8 plugs?
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