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  #1  
Old 09-08-2006, 13:54
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Default Heeeelp! - Electrical Issues...

Arrgh! - don'cha just hate electrics?...

Car was running great until a couple of days back - then suddenly starting idling wildly between 800 and 1500rpm and was really unresponsive/hesitant to drive...

By the time I got home and parked up a mile or so later, it was missing and all over the place, and when I went to put the electric windows up it stalled!

So, I checked the battery - 9.5volts!?!?! - Checked the earth to the alternator, and was a solid signal.

I've taken the battery off, but will also check the live from the alternator to the battery...

Before I took the battery off, I boost-started the car with a battery booster, left it on, and still only measured 9.5volts across the battery (it used to be 13.x volts)...

I'm going to charge the battery up, and see if it shows full voltage, but even then - It may be something else, and the juice is not getting back into it?

So, my question is - what are the likely causes for this problem? (I've checked on Silviagod's site, and he's mentioned about corrosion (I have no plastic arch guards, so is worth checking into)), and I was wondering how (before buying another!) I could check the allternator's working fine?

I'm a bit of a newcomer when it comes to getting down and dirty under the bonnet, so all helps/suggestions are appreciated...

I'm also tempted to re-wire the (possibly) corroded wires if need be, and replace any relays, fuses, etc. that may not be working, so envisaging a lot of pinning out/tracing/testing...

Basically, I'm sick and tired of electrical problems with the car, and from being ripped off by so-called "specialist" vehicle electrics garages who have between them managed to perform umpteen bodges to fix the car (to be honest, I don't even trust the average Nissan spanner monkey to do it right , even though they should have the information to hand), and at present my lights don't work on full beam, stay up when raised, my stereo cuts out whenever it feels like it (and comes back on - strange - could be a short, but it should fuse if this is the case? - Checked the wiring at the back of the stereo, and seems fine?), and my clock and lights flicker like mad whenever this happens... Aaaaaarrgh!!!...

Alternatively, if anyone knows (personally) of a GREAT vehicle electrics specialist in the West Midlands, I'd really appreciate getting this lot sorted once and for all!

Cheers all...


Den.
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Only 450+ BHP from a 1.8? (Well, until I can run big boost again ) - Still, back on the road and looking for victims - Muhaahaahaaa!....

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Last edited by Japster; 09-08-2006 at 13:56.
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  #2  
Old 09-08-2006, 14:22
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it sounds a if the battery is dead, if you drove the car for a while with the battery dead it might have took the alternator with it

the batt should put out 12v the alternator should charge at 14v

the head light problem will be caused by the stalk switch. the contacts inside get worn out. mine has done it I only get 1 head light coming on. you can take stalk apart and clean the contacts but its easier to get another complete working stalk from anther Silvia
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  #3  
Old 09-08-2006, 20:22
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best way to check the alternator is working is, start the car, and disconnect the battery, if the alterantor is working it will continue running, if not it will stall dead.
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Old 10-08-2006, 03:24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umpkin
best way to check the alternator is working is, start the car, and disconnect the battery, if the alterantor is working it will continue running, if not it will stall dead.
Cheers for the info guys - Will check that out tomorrow!
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Only 450+ BHP from a 1.8? (Well, until I can run big boost again ) - Still, back on the road and looking for victims - Muhaahaahaaa!....

Yep - I fookin' love me beast ...

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  #5  
Old 11-08-2006, 13:19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Japster
Cheers for the info guys - Will check that out tomorrow!
Well, that didn't go too well....

Battery's charged and on - Engine's still revving up and down, but amongst other things one of my pipes have bust - P*ssing water all over my drive!!!

Was too hot to check where from yesterday (still have to disconnect the battery while the engine is running to check the charge), but I'd have thought that with a juiced-up battery (I checked - It's 12.5 volts now), I'd have thought that at least the un-even revving should have gone away??...

Getting pretty p*ssed off now! - Will crawl under the car tonight and try to have a feel where that hose is bust (hopefully it IS just a hose!!)...

Dammit - Can't even drive it anywhere to get it sorted now!...
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Only 450+ BHP from a 1.8? (Well, until I can run big boost again ) - Still, back on the road and looking for victims - Muhaahaahaaa!....

Yep - I fookin' love me beast ...

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  #6  
Old 12-08-2006, 19:00
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get a 3000gt Den!!! haha!! by the way i have split with the missus. My silvia is up for sale!!!!
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  #7  
Old 14-08-2006, 10:32
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Maybe your water leak is leaking on your alternator/electrics or engine management sensors.

Clean all the sencors up and check them.

Another idea is when its idling push and pull slightly on the inlet manifold and see if that effects the idle as a buggered inlet manifold gasket can cause those rpm symptoms.

Also Connect your s12 to another car with jump leads with the other car running and see if that helps as 12.5v is not enough output at the battery with the engine running.As you say it should be ok but i dont know how fussy your management is

oh..and.........3000gt are big and heavy lol
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Last edited by PukkaSilvia; 14-08-2006 at 12:56.
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  #8  
Old 14-08-2006, 13:50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pukkasilvia
Maybe your water leak is leaking on your alternator/electrics or engine management sensors.

Clean all the sencors up and check them.

Another idea is when its idling push and pull slightly on the inlet manifold and see if that effects the idle as a buggered inlet manifold gasket can cause those rpm symptoms.

Also Connect your s12 to another car with jump leads with the other car running and see if that helps as 12.5v is not enough output at the battery with the engine running.As you say it should be ok but i dont know how fussy your management is

oh..and.........3000gt are big and heavy lol
Cheers Pukka - the water leak's on the turbo side - I can't see past the manifold and turbo, but have felt with my hands, and can't feel a hose off or split (though it almost certainly is) - Damn, wish this had happened at Jae when my mechanics were handy!

I think you're right about the power - 12.5 volts when running's not enough is it? - I'll hook up the fiesta (or Tom's Range Rover if he nips up!) - Either way, it'll be nice it it idles smoothly (I think it's just that with the electrics, water leak AND erratic running problem all happening at once, I'm WELL p*ssed off! - If they'd happened separately, I'd have only had to take 'em one at a time )

Will also check the inlet mani as suggested, but seriously mate - Cheers for the info!

PS - Paul? - 3000GT's are BIG man - Lotta weight to pull, and they pretty much drive themselves! (Where's the fun in that eh? )

PPS - yer sound too happy about both the missus AND the car going?!?! - ...have you had a bump on the head?!

Ironic! - I was going to nip up and show you the beastie during the five minutes or so it was actually running well, but then she got poorly again...
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Only 450+ BHP from a 1.8? (Well, until I can run big boost again ) - Still, back on the road and looking for victims - Muhaahaahaaa!....

Yep - I fookin' love me beast ...

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  #9  
Old 15-08-2006, 16:24
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funnily enough the doc has diagnosed me with acute depression!!! it affects me very strangely. All went wrong when i bought a replacement T3 and it was noo good. I started then. Anyway, Im pleased with the 3000gt. Reliable fairly fast (320bhp uk spec) and ok to drive. I will fix silvia fully before she goes to a new home i think.
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  #10  
Old 15-08-2006, 19:49
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if you fully fix your silvia you may even wanna sell the mitsi
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i wished my cams cost only £130 each, i must have c*nt wrote on my head
www.chaileygarage.co.uk
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