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  #11  
Old 15-01-2013, 16:33
nedge2k nedge2k is offline
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I like the angles to try and direct the flow to the flange
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  #12  
Old 15-01-2013, 17:58
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yep, i hear ya, but then then gas has to go through 90deg from valve to exh port before it gets to the exh manifold, so its not like a less than perfect theory manifold is the only design issue.

anyway, perfect world tubulars the way to go imho, but its a lot of work as i found out and has a lot of potential for the F*ck Up Fairy to visit, whereas the K.I.S.S. approach of using a stock manifold or fabricating a log manifold is simpler and does work albeit potentially not as well as the tubular if done correctly

http://www.boostedk20.com/forums/sho...bular-Manifold

hopefully the pics are of use to the OP, even if theyve given you a chuckle nedge...
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Last edited by CNHSS1; 15-01-2013 at 18:04.
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  #13  
Old 15-01-2013, 20:49
nedge2k nedge2k is offline
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hey, if it works it works! as you say, there's alot of theory out that but few have the balls and/or facilities to test it properly. besides, i can't really comment - my knowledge is firmly rooted in n/a engines, i know sod all about proper turbo tuning :P
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  #14  
Old 16-01-2013, 03:12
datsober datsober is offline
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Thank you for your pics and vast knowledge on this overseen engine.
Looks like it was a perfect engine in that beast why did you change your mind on running it? I like the oil piston squirters I was going to ask if you did that mod as its upposed to help with cooling slugs and overall reliability especially on the small ends.

I really like the fact it was designed as the PLAZMA or something for it ability to be lightweight and powerful. Of course the head could have been better but for the hp and torque I am chasing its cheaper and lighter than most engines available cheaply.

The 8v head is 9-10 kg lighter than the twin cam head and leavers heaps of room in the engine bay.

If I go for the stock ex manifold could it achieve big torque and decent hp with 200cc extra (1997cc) or should I go for extra capacity tube ex manifold like that square looking contraption

Any idea what that tube square manifold made ?

Last edited by datsober; 16-01-2013 at 04:43.
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  #15  
Old 16-01-2013, 09:25
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Oil squirters lubricate small ends and cool underside of piston crowns. This reduces chances of det. In the case of small ends, they tend to fail through overheating of pistons so its a two fold win :-)

Im no expect on the stock Nissan manifold, bu im sure people on here regularly see 225hp and above without issue.
The log type is probably too big volume for response and torque for your setup

I will email my mate Stew and see what it made, seem to remember 220ish but could be wrong.

Could you not use a DET block as a basis? You get the piston squirters and crank brace as std. Use an ET oil pump sump your CA20 crank. Whats the piston size on your CA20?
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  #16  
Old 16-01-2013, 13:11
datsober datsober is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CNHSS1 View Post
Oil squirters lubricate small ends and cool underside of piston crowns. This reduces chances of det. In the case of small ends, they tend to fail through overheating of pistons so its a two fold win :-)
I was planning to get 4g63, VW golf gti or BMW ones as they are cheap to get compared to the nissan ones.

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Originally Posted by CNHSS1 View Post
I will email my mate Stew and see what it made, seem to remember 220ish but could be wrong.
That would be very interesting! especially with 200cc+ extra 88mm stroke.


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Originally Posted by CNHSS1 View Post
Could you not use a DET block as a basis? You get the piston squirters and crank brace as std. Use an ET oil pump sump your CA20 crank. Whats the piston size on your CA20?
I would love the longer rods as they work best with these horrible shallow port design and the ca20e block can go to 85.5mm bores with ease as they are cast as 84.5mm and can take 2mm more with ease and proven with boost.

The full counterweight cd20 crank Ive got only accepts the ca18det oil pump and Ill be using either 85 or 86 mm pistons first have to do some sonic testing and x-raying of the bores. Id prefer 85mm for extra wall thickness.
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  #17  
Old 16-01-2013, 16:44
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have you pics of the crank you are using? is it from the diesel?

youve got me wondering now maybe i need to start and buid, a new motor again!

re the piston squirters, second hand ones can be had for £20 per set, no problem. i have pics of the macining needed to modify an ET block, needs a flat land machining and then break through into main oil gallery for oil supply.

with the ET & DET blocks they dont take much more than 84mm bore and even then if the machine shops a bit dodgy and not centred the bores properly they can break through the bore walls and weep coolant

i didnt realise the cA20 blocks had such thick walls. again any pics would be useful.

where are you based by the way?
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  #18  
Old 16-01-2013, 21:10
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s13eater s13eater is offline
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craig, was'nt the walker scimmy a 2lt ?
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  #19  
Old 17-01-2013, 08:17
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Yeah at some point, although they blew a number lol. Based on UkCa20 with forgies and rods by Oselli Engineering. In its latter years it was back on 1800 blocks due to easier avaialability. When they sold the car on, it was based on a CA18ET as the new owner promptly grenaded the engine!
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  #20  
Old 17-01-2013, 08:18
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Datsober

I put the word around re crank braces and one of the guys i sold one to sti has it unused. I will get him to contact you

Craig
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