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  #11  
Old 10-01-2009, 18:30
s12-newbie s12-newbie is offline
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i'm ill having starting troubles, i have a new temp sensor fitted (OE nissan part) i took the air regulator off & cleaned it & it did'nt help, when i removed it it was about 3mm open, it moves freely with a screwdriver, it says in the manual it can be tested off the car but i dont know how, i've heard it can be wired to work from a switch????? :/

i've changed my vac hose to the fuel regulator too as the old one was a bit hardend

i have some silicone vac hose in the post to replace othe vac lines but mine seem ok

its taking me 5minutes of cranking to get it going, then once warm it is'nt too bad, start fine once warm

i've fitted a new dizzy cap too

any ideas lads??? i need to sort it asap
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  #12  
Old 11-01-2009, 01:24
Steelballz Steelballz is offline
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maybe all the cranking has worn out the battery by now...check the charge on it, and the distilled water in the battery too with a hydrometer...

also, if all the vacuum pipes are ok, are they definately connected to the right connections???

sure all the gaskets are ok, ie the engine isn't losing compression while cranking....?
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  #13  
Old 11-01-2009, 10:36
s12-newbie s12-newbie is offline
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battery is good, vacume hose are all fitted correct & compressions are good, i'm havin mild thoughts of taking it to a garage which i dont really tend to do due to a small budget & i've not found one that is'nt a rip-of, where i live anyhow!!!

i'm going to redo the ecu diagnose's 2moro & see what it throughs up

any way i can wire a switch to the air regulator/ficd thing! so i put a voltage to it to open it then turn it off to close it when the car is warm
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  #14  
Old 11-01-2009, 10:48
umpkin umpkin is offline
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did you change the right temp sensor??? there are 2 on the s12 engine, one for the gauge (has one spade terminal) and one for the ecu (has 2 terminals in a plug)

just a thought.

have you checked the cold start bit is working, im sure if you take it off, and look through the pipe holes you can see the bit that moves open and close.
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  #15  
Old 13-01-2009, 17:22
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yep took the bit off that has that metal slide in & it moves freely! the air regulator, i have a spare ficd thingy too, the bit that the pipe from the intake to throttle bodie goes too, if that makes sence

i've just changed the 2 wire temp sensor & the spade end sender to no avail :? both new nissan parts

i want to hit the car!
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  #16  
Old 20-01-2009, 22:52
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have you checked to make sure that your inlet manifold and throttle body gaskets are intact?otherwise i would say try changing your distributor as they are the number 1 reason for starting problems on an s12.
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  #17  
Old 20-01-2009, 22:55
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what colour are the plugs?
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  #18  
Old 06-02-2009, 16:44
s12-newbie s12-newbie is offline
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right chaps i've checked the temp sensor & i had a broken wire& the coldstartd problom is still there, i've checked the resistances & all seems ok, the air regulaters i have are showing 60.4 ohms & opens & closes off the car at differing temps!

is it an ecu problom, when i can get it to start it does'nt fast idle (cold start) it just sits at 500rpm & wavers up to 750rpm then back down again?

i've checked & double checked everythink i think, i've even ceaned up all my earths, the ecu has some dodgy wiring repairs so thats my next place to check but other than that i dont know what to do

i've also got two good temp sensors, & 2 air regulators, a spare FICD & i've cleaned them up, i have a feeling a wire orsome wire have possibly broken/chafed or the ecu is faulty

does the ecu come up on the self diagnose's if it has a fault????
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  #19  
Old 06-02-2009, 17:31
umpkin umpkin is offline
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look here for fault codes and how to check them.

http://www.nissansilvia.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=156
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  #20  
Old 09-02-2009, 17:58
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an little update!

it still has this bloody cold start problom, i've checked the voltages on the temp sensor & its recieving 5volts, the air reg is recieving 12.43 volts

what am i missing????

i've done a self diagnose on the ecu previous to voltage checks & i can get the ecu to stop flashing now????????

if anyone could pop by to help me for an hour to see if i've missed something

i cant see my timing marks to well, 15 degrees is the 2nd dot from the right on the pully is'nt it??? & idle should be around 750-800rpm

PM me if you have any idea's, i'm so stuck
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