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  #31  
Old 19-01-2007, 11:36
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JackieFan
i built the first one (normally aspirated), then bought this one, but not in this spec. In fact the only bits that havent been modified or changed since ive owned it, is the diff and chassis, both of which are being rebuilt and modified before the start of the season lol
Martin
yeah, its on the list of jobs to be done. i run 16psi at the mo, but will probably be running 18-20psi when its remapped. I do begrudge paying £400 for a fancy ally I/C that i know i will destroy next time i have an 'off' lol The only thing between the I/C and the armco is 2.5mm plastic and fibreglass.
i do fancy the ally iveco ones, as they look quite nice and should flow pretty well too.
Whaddya reckon? any other choices?
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  #32  
Old 19-01-2007, 11:40
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Look at RS500 replacement ones. You could use your original piping then
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  #33  
Old 19-01-2007, 12:37
sideways danny sideways danny is offline
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there's a guy on ebay called intercoolerking who has all different sizes of IC, mostly under £100
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  #34  
Old 19-01-2007, 12:51
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cheers chaps, will have a search. always worried re cossie stuff due to the word cosworth adding the 'CAT' cosworth added tax!
anyone used the iveco coolers? any thoughts on them?

EDIT not worried about using current pipework ass i want to re-do it all anyway.
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Last edited by CNHSS1; 19-01-2007 at 13:33.
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  #35  
Old 25-01-2007, 00:09
drftnassmofo drftnassmofo is offline
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are these manis for sale???
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  #36  
Old 25-01-2007, 08:49
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no mate, its just a DET manifold cut and shut as described in this thread.
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  #37  
Old 26-02-2007, 20:21
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latest pics of top mount test fitted
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Picture 009-1.jpg (24.9 KB, 451 views)
File Type: jpg Picture 012-1.jpg (25.0 KB, 441 views)
File Type: jpg Picture 016-1.jpg (26.5 KB, 428 views)
File Type: jpg Picture 017-1.jpg (33.5 KB, 433 views)
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  #38  
Old 27-02-2007, 07:19
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Thumbs up Turning the turbo

Hello mate grand job that, when you turn the turbo the only thing in my experience is that on th compressor side some turbos have a paper gasket and some of the older type casting have a mooosive 'O'ring type seal, just be careful when you try to move it. Dont forget you will need to weld a support bracket welding onto the bottom of the manifold, i have mine going down to the engine mounting and have drilled the side of the engine mounting braket, just bolts onto the engine mounting so it does'nt keep pulling the studs from the head and crack where the pipes join the flange going onto the head.( i speak from many hours hellicoiling and cracked front pipe), sorry in advance if you've done this . I also have a stabalizing bracket that fastens the front pipe along side the gearbox so that whole lot moves together. This stopped the frontsection of the exhaust moving on my silvy.

An idea for the down pipe aswell from the guy who made my front pipe was try and get the flange to be further down so can take the system of the car from underneath rather than have to faff on under the bonnet but i suppose you have to worry about a bonnet , you can just lift the fooking front off ya lucky bugga,lol


Damn good job though , looks like it less time than the from start job i did, a lot tidy'er than mine aswell

thumbs up from me mate.
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  #39  
Old 27-02-2007, 10:05
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cheers Kenny some good advice there.
i intend to mount a gallows style of brace from the rocker cover and head bit like the Bailey cossie ones to suspend and support the whole maifold and turbo on rosejoints. think i may look at some form of spport rrom underneath too from either the engine mount or spare tapped block holes.
im gonna have to cut the bulkhead back and then gonn fit a flexi joint about a foot after the elbow and then 90 deg under the car before the first clamped joint. i will probably not use a clamp but springs so that it can move a bit too. whole thing will be exhaust wrapped too.
cheers for the advice th
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  #40  
Old 01-03-2007, 23:31
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