Some engine info needed ca18et/det

[umpkin]

hi, guys, my poor silvia has been sitting at my mums for the past 5 years with big ends fubbered, and am clearing my garage to actually get it to my house so i can work on it again and get it back on the road.

I currently have the mk1 engine in it, and i want the mk2 engine, mainly because the oil feed for the turbo, as i have a botched one on mine after it started leaking, and its easier to get the later other oil feed as its same as DET engine.

my question is, i only need a bottom end, and for sourcing parts purposes, could i use a DET bottom end with ET inards, I know there would be no benefit power wise, only thing i know of is different are the head bolts, is there anything else that may stop me, just easier to get DET lumps than ET lumps?

Cheers.

[JanekS12]

From how I see it, there wouldn't be any direct power gain BUT having a bulletproof DET bottom is really cool since I think the ET piston rods are the biggest weakness of that engine. You probably could achieve some serious boost with the DET end. Also I think DET has different crankshaft sprocket and you might have to get a DET gearbox

[CNHSS1]

You can swap some parts over but need to mix and match rthe right bits between the two.

If you wish to keep the 8v head this is what I think you'll need:-

DET block pistons and rods and crankbrace
ET crank, bottom pulley, bottom timing pulley, sump and oil pump.
ET flywheel to suit ET crank (6 bolt vs DET 8 bolt).
You will have to use DET headbolts which are (from memory) 11mm as opposed to ET 10mm which may mean you have to open the ET head bolt holes a little, they may be oversize, I just can't remember.
You will need to remove the DET idler pulley shafts from front of block (next to waterpump). It's a plain shafts with a thread each end, hold in mole grips and turn and it will wind out of tapped hole in block.

Headgaskets are next issue as they are essentially the same but have differing sized holes in the waterways to alter water flow speed through differing sections of the 8v and 16v heads. I'd be tempted to use the 8v one as it's the 8v head.

The steel water tube adjacent to cyl 1 above the waterpump is different too. These are a press fit. If you shove a hammer stale up it and wiggle back and forth it will tease out. Repeat on the 8v old block and gently fit into 16v black and tap home.

When rebuilding the ET crank into the DET block you'll need the ET oil pump and dips tick as the crank nose is smaller on the 8v (to drive 8v cam belt lower sprocket). Ideally you need to use the DET crank brace as it indexes the bearing caps to one another and stops block flex and crank walk but it will foul the front corners on the ET sump (needed as you need the ET OIL pump). You will need to grind the corners off the from of the crank brace to clear the sump. Don't attempt to hammer the sump for clearance as if the distort it'll pi55 oil out for fun!


Pro's
You get thicker rods and crank brace. Pistons are the same as 8v excpet bigger gudgeon pin so no performance gain there.
You get the DET oil piston squirrels for under piston crown cooling

Cons
Lots of work for no performance gain unless you intend on running 275-300hp from an ET

Personally just to change the placement of the turbo oil feed it's a lot of work! The turbo only needs a feed and low volume at that, it doesn't care where it gets it from. If you look in the Nissan manual it shows a diagram of the oil galleries and you could just as easily drill and tap the block where the mk2 is and basically make your mk1 block a mk2 anyway.

Any questions let me know as I've built a couple of ET/DET hybrids for my race cars :-)
Cheers craig