S12OC UK Forum - Stuttering and dieing at 2-3k

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Should of said there is a red and a green light on the ecu when the ignition is switched on, don't know if this means anything?

this is the ecu fault diagnosis system. it may be worth your while checking the error codes if somebody here wants to tell you how too. I dont have the workshop manual next to me at the moment

Thought it was but couldn't see how to check it, I also thought that the the engine had to be running to for this to run. Otnher than that I know it's counting the flashes and looking up what they mean.

I have the haynes bluebird manual. will type as its written to check the fault codes.

Quote:

1. Remove the retaining bolts and pull the ECU out so you can handle it.
2. Make sure the diagnostic screw is fully counterclockwise using a small screwdriver.
3. Turn the ignition switch on. if the engine will not start, turn it over on the starter for at least 2 seconds before starting self diagnosis.
4. Check that both LEDs light up, use a small screwdriver to gently turn the diagnosis mode selector fully clockwise.
5. Depress the accelerator pedal once, then release it.
6. Start the engine and allow it to idle. (i guess you ignore this if it wont start)
7. On executive models, switch off the air con, switch it on again, then switch it off.
8. watch the LEDs and write down the code/s displayed. Compare on table below (this should also be printed ontop of the ECU casing)

11 - 1 red flash, 1 green flash = faulty distributor/crank angle sensor
12 - 1 red flash, 2 green flashes = faulty airflow meter or circuit
13 - 1 red flash, 3 green flashes = faulty water temp sensor or circuit
21 - 2 red flashes, 1 green flash = faulty ignition system
22 - 2 red flashes, 2 green flashes = faulty fuel pump or circuit
23 - 2 red flashes, 3 green flashes = faulty throttle valve switch or circuit
31 - 3 red flashes, 1 green flash = no fault (exec models = no sgnal from air con)
32 - 3 red flashes, 2 green flashes = faulty det (knock) sensor
44 - 4 red flashes, 4 green flashes = no fault found (exec models only)

note. on occasion, two fault codes may be displayed, if one of the codes is 11 then check the disributo/crangle angle sensor first.

9. Turn the diagnosis mode selector fully counterclockwise and swith of engine.
10. After repair erase the codes and repeat above.

erasing the codes.
1. switch on the ignition, turn the diagnosis selector fully clockwise and keep it there for at least 2 seconds, then turn it counterclockwise and keep it there for at least 2 seconds, then switch off the ignition.

i hope this does the trick as im a slow typer and this took a while :D

it's not showing any fault so it's off to the garage with it and that will mean parting with loads of hard earned I expect, not what's wanted at this time of year:furious

Apparently my ecu has had it, so what I need is another ecu to test this asap so if anyone has got a spare ecu and local to kent I would greatly appreciate it. I really need to get the car back on the road by the weekend if possible.

Today so I could get my car transported to a auto-electricans i had to call my recovery out again.
Guy turns up and goes through all the rigmarol of checking everything, he found that I now had power to the inectors but a weak spark he proceded to dig into the coil conection on the dizzy cap only to tell me that it was corroded and now " had no silver in it", I thought I'd just seen him dig it all out with a screwdriver but what do I know? What I needed I was told is a new cap and all will be fine, and off he went.
So off I trotted and bought a new cap, fitted it, turned the key, nothing turned over ect but didn't start. Phoned recovery again second guy turns up and prods round tests all the electrics, turns the car over gets a plug out and it's bone dry.
So what we have now is the fuel pump pumping, spark plugs sparking and inectors getting power but no fuel getting getting into the cylinders:annoyed:
So 3 hours after the initial call the car finaly got towed off to where I asked for it to go in the first place.

Seems we have the same problem i hope you get it sorted so you can tell me what to do next:confused:

i had a simmilar probs now it may sound stupid but i am not undermining your machanical skills
as i was fallen into the same trap too but have you checked the fuel hose that goes to the engine as if it has slipped off it will show the same symptoms roughly only a thought hope it helps

Just spocken to the auto-electrician and at the moment it's looking like a dodgey coil not giving a powerfull enough spark of a knackered ecu as it also seems to be over fueling :confused: