![]() |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
No because it makes the shaft too long, and it full compresses up the cv joints and it even pushes the swing arm outwards
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
![]()
__________________
86 Silvia Grand Prix - under reconstructio |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
I thought I might add that in the Vlsd the V stands for viscous. Viscous diffs are basically a single open diff with some friction plates that heat up a fluid which then engages the other half but only if it gets hot enough. This system works well if used for an extended period of time or if warmed up before use (eg small burnout) but generally, when driving around normally it wont do anything if you try to drift straight up. So it is a cheap alternative to a proper lsd but its like anything you get what you pay for.
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
i cant see how this set up would be reliable as you are using 2 different types of joint on the same drive shaft. CV which isn't supposed to move and a lobro joint which is designed to move. i cant see the CV joint lasting very long
__________________
http://insightbookingsolutions.co.uk |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
__________________
![]() |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
__________________
http://insightbookingsolutions.co.uk |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Na, but I have seen that type on the fwd nissans though.
__________________
![]() |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
This is from Club S12 where GerryB did a short write up on what it took to get his S13 VLSD to work in the S12... which I'll be doing in the next 6 months.
I have an s13 VLSD centre in my longnose s12 type 4.11 R200. It bolted in fine after I swapped the s12 crownwheel on to it. BUT for the RHS drive shaft I had to take the inner CV off and swap the s13 inner CV on to it and run the s13 RHS input shaft in the diff to operate the Viscous centre. Also had to cut off about 8mm off the end of the spline that goes into the diff of the LHS s12 driveshaft, so it didn't fowl on the viscous coupling. After these mods was just a bolt up. (I got the VLSD reshimmed also before fitting it, (extra shims) to make it real tight.) http://www.club-s12.org/forums/index...howtopic=16318 |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
The shimming thing doesn't have any impact on how the LSD works, it actually means the teeth of the pinion wheels bind together extra tight. Not good for wear and also the effect isn't smooth, its 'bumpy'.
__________________
![]() |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
If you are on a budget and dont want to spend the value of your car on a new rear diff, I did read somewhere that a kingcab diff is plate type, as opposed to viscous, and a better performer for all but driving to the shops.
Be careful to do your homework though and find the one with the right size crownwheel bolts, I think there are two types, 10mm and 12mm... but if you get the right diff then its supposed to be an easy swap and 500 quid cheaper than a "proper" plate type diff. We have done the scandinavian thing, and welded up the sun and planet gears, haven't done any miles on it yet as the car is still being built... but I have heard of drifters with S12's running welded diffs without any problems, although they can be a b@stard when driving slow, turning tightly and generally around town. Welding the diff is easy enough and if you have the kit, it is free..... and IMO 100% better for drifting than a poncy viscous diff. Conkers |
![]() |
|
|