![]() |
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
has anyone tried using the eccentric bolt from the toe adjustment on the rear subframe to adjust camber?
i was looking at it tonight and reckon if the outside bracket is slotted vertical instead of horizontal it should work. i just so happen to have a second subframe to butcher to see if this works
__________________
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Be interesting to know how it turns out as it's one of the first jobs on my list! I was going to just slot and plate it like on club-S12.
__________________
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
The slotting method seems the best way to do it. Certainly best for adjusting it after. Is the toe adjustment on the inner bush or the outer bush? I thought it was the inner bush so you would have to lower the outside bracket. This might lead to the car looking higher at the back then before. I had that impression of the SE conversions anyway, but could be wrong on the inner/outer thing.
There is another way to do it, which I did on my Datsun. I only did it this way as it was something which needed fabricating anyway, and the engine wasn't even in the car yet. When I fitted the R200 to my car I had to mess with the rear mount, the idea was to get it so the shafts were at the same height as the original diff so the geometry was untouched. I did this and it had really awful camber being so low at the back prob about 5 degs By raising the back of the diff up I managed to reduce the camber to something more reasonable, probably about 1.5 deg's now. Coz the diff mount is slotted its a really easy quick bodge with an angle grinder. However you can't just go and do this and expect it to work, the change of the angle on the prop will be dangerous, and it will probably vibrate like a slag. I didn't worry coz i was setting the angle of the engine/box anyway. You would need to raise the back of the gearbox up and slide some shims in between the mount and gearbox, and check everything is parallel again. Of course I don't know what floor clearance an S12 has, but by reducing the camber I only had to raise the box 1.3cms. To change my camber all I need to do is grind up another location plate at the back to lock the diff into position to say lower the diff again, and remove some of the shims. Just another way to do it if someone hasn't got a welder or feels like stripping a subframe.
__________________
![]() |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]() ![]() Theres this info in the how to section Duncan http://www.nissansilvia.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=1704
__________________
![]() Quote:
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
the toe adjustment is on the inner bush alrite. i saw a couple of threads on slotting here and on s12.org. i'll probably end up going that direction aswell but my mind does tend to wander at work
![]() i'll give it a go and see what happens. sucker for punishment
__________________
|
![]() |
|
|