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#1
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my oil seems to get a bit dirty quicker these days, maybe the bigger injectors and more fuel
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#2
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Fao shaun. At a guess with the engine flush i cant see it doing any damage at all if as a pre-causion the same process is taken as when you fit a new turbo. Ie crank over the engine by hand with the drain line in a pot until a half pint has flowed through the turbo.Out of interest What does it say on the tin?
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Last edited by PukkaSilvia; 24-02-2006 at 22:19. |
#3
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engine flush is bad, it disturbs carbon that would normally just stay put and gets it moving round your engine
Silkolene 10w50 has been proved not to have degraded at all after 7k on an s14a, and that's after 2 track days. Castrol is designed for VERY high temperature applications but as such is a compromised formulation and doesn't hold it's viscosity. for the road you want a stable oil. castrol RS also has a very high sulphur content which some engines don't like |
#4
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forget the engine flush bas i have heard that it can damage the turbo blades too i have used stp wymns slick50 and no probs as these are reptuble brands of engine treatments and fuel treatments but some of the cheaper brands can do more damage than any good
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#5
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additives can actually cause the oil to degrade faster, slick 50 is teflon based, BAD!!!!!
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#6
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#7
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I've used Silkolene and have found it the most stable at giving consistent oil pressures between normal and really high oil temps
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#8
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S.E. used to recomend castrol RS 10w60 or castrol GTX magnatec 10w40 as a cheaper alternative.
I use castrol GTX magnatec 10w40 as my car has over 100,000miles. If it was lower mileage or modified i would use millers CFS 10w60 its afew £ cheaper than castrol RS + you get 5ltr's instead of 4. And also you should use genuine Nissan oil filter's they are only £7.49 and that includes the sump plug washer that is only ment to be used once. |
#9
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Norris designs recommended me mobile 1 15-50. Any thoughts on this as this is what i use. (when the car is on the road which these days is rare).
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